Galaxy Frost Side Panel Cabinets

This is not one part in six sizes. It is six code families running the same widths, and the letters split into two decisions: what sits in front of the P names the profile, and what follows it names what is underneath.

The roughly $170 step between the footed families and the flat ones is the feet — the same money you would spend buying bun feet separately. Vera against shaker is the profile: shaker keeps the clean stepped line that matches the door, Vera carries more decorative shaping.

Here is what makes us pause. A part that finishes an exposed end is the same piece of material whether it closes out a 24″ vanity or a 60″ one — every bath box in this line shares one height and one depth, so those two numbers set the price and width never enters into it. Here the price climbs about $100 from V24 to V60, and width-driven pricing means the part spans the cabinet rather than standing beside it.

Follow the codes back to the manufacturer and that is what you find. Fabuwood catalogues this family as vanity platforms with feet, in two platform profiles — Vera and shaker — crossed with two foot styles, taper and cove. Distributor listings for identical codes carry titles like "Shaker Platform With Taper Feet For V24" at 24⅜″ W × 5″ H × 22⅛″ D. Note the ⅜″: wider than the 24″ cabinet, because a plinth shows a small reveal past the box it carries.

Better you hear that here than find it on the truck. If you need a flat finished end, ask us to quote that part against your specific cabinet rather than ordering off this list. If you want a vanity standing on feet like furniture, you are in the right place.

Cabinet sides leave the factory as a working surface. Against a wall that is invisible and correct. In a bathroom, where a vanity usually ends in open floor on at least one side, it is the detail that quietly marks a job as cheap: a slightly flatter sheen and a visible band on the edge, read from the doorway without knowing what you are looking at.

Two costs come attached to fixing it, and both get missed on quotes. The countertop overhangs the finished side by roughly ¾″ to 1½″, and it has to come down on the face rather than stop short of it, so the fabricator and the cabinet order have to agree first. The second is the toe kick: stopping at the toe recess and carrying on down to the floor are two separate looks. Our guide to end panels, scribe molding and fillers covers how those parts divide the work.

Assuming you do want the furniture look, this is a style call rather than a performance one. Three opinions.

• Shaker profile with a taper foot is the default. It repeats the flat, square language of the Galaxy door instead of arguing with it.
• Vera profile with a cove foot is the traditional end of the range. It belongs in a room with paneled walls and a framed mirror, not in a builder-grade hall bath where it reads as costume.
• The footless versions give you a finished plinth without raising the cabinet 5″. If the height math above is what stopped you, that is the family to ask about.

1. Confirm which part you are buying — platform assembly or finished end — in writing, by description and not only by code.
2. Pin the trailing code to the width you are genuinely ordering. Upsize a vanity late in the job and this part upsizes with it.
3. Get the finished counter height in numbers — cabinet, anything under it, plus the top — and check it against 36″.
4. Agree the countertop overhang with whoever templates the stone, and settle the toe-kick treatment in the same conversation.

The rest of this range is quicker to specify: the bun feet that sit under a platform, the decorative onlay for the door face, and four interior parts — an organizer pull-out, a U-shaped under-sink unit, a grooming organizer and a door-mounted appliance rack. All seven sit together on the vanity accessories page, and the cabinets they attach to are on the vanities page.