Over Refrigerator Cabinet Sizes, Depths and Panel Options

An over refrigerator cabinet should match the width of the fridge opening (30, 33 or 36 inches for most freestanding models, 42 or 48 for large built-ins), be 24 inches deep so its doors sit near the front of the appliance, and be sized in height to close the gap between the fridge and the top line of your other uppers: 12, 15, 18, 21 or 24 inches, leaving at least an inch of air above the fridge. Get those three numbers right and the refrigerator reads as built in. Get one wrong and you end up with a dust shelf, a box you cannot reach, or a fridge that will not slide back into its own opening.

We sell cabinets for a living, and the cabinet above the fridge is the piece that most often gets reordered, usually because someone measured the old refrigerator instead of the new one. Our wall and tall cabinet guide covers the basics of deep wall cabinets in one section. This page goes further: real refrigerator dimensions from manufacturer spec sheets, height math for 8-, 9- and 10-foot ceilings, the side panels that hold the whole enclosure together, and priced examples from the lines we sell.

Key Takeaways

• Width follows the opening: a fridge sold as "fits a 36-inch opening" takes a 36-inch cabinet above it. Fabuwood Allure, US Cabinet Depot and KCD all stop their 24-inch-deep doored boxes at 36 inches; Allure covers 42 and 48 inches with two lift-up units.
• Height is subtraction: take the top line of your uppers, subtract the fridge height including its hinge caps and an inch of air. With the usual 54-inch upper line, the box above the fridge bottoms out at 72 inches whichever upper height you chose.
• Depth is 24 inches, not 12: a standard 12-inch upper leaves its face roughly 18 to 23 inches behind the fridge doors. J&K builds its version 27 inches deep.
• Panels make the enclosure: a refrigerator end panel (REP) on each exposed side supports the deep box and finishes the opening. Allure panels come 24 or 30 inches deep, in 96- or 120-inch lengths, and in 3/4, 1-1/2 and 3-inch thicknesses.
• Typical cost: in Fabuwood Galaxy, a 36-inch fridge surround with one 24-inch-deep cabinet and two panels runs about $1,000 to $1,200 in cabinet parts, before installation.

Table of Contents

• Refrigerator Sizes and Opening Dimensions
• Air and Door Clearances the Manufacturers Ask For
• Cabinet Over the Fridge: Matching Width to the Opening
• Cabinet Height by Ceiling and Upper Line
• 12 vs 24 Inches Deep: Where the Face Ends Up
• Refrigerator Wall Cabinets in the Lines We Carry
• 42- and 48-Inch Refrigerators and the Lift-Up Units
• Refrigerator End Panels and Panel Surrounds
• How a Fridge Enclosure Goes Together
• Above a French-Door, Side-by-Side or Top-Freezer Fridge
• What to Store Up There, or Skip the Cabinet
• What It Costs: Four Priced Examples
• Ordering Checklist
• Frequently Asked Questions

Refrigerator Sizes and Opening Dimensions

Everything about the cabinet above depends on the appliance below, so start there. Refrigerators fall into three depth classes, and the width class is usually printed right on the spec sheet as "fits 30-inch opening" or "fits 36-inch opening." The height varies more than people expect, and the number that matters is the height including the hinge caps on top of the doors, not the height of the cabinet body.

Two Samsung French-door models show how the classes differ while the other dimensions stay the same. Their published fit guides list the same 35-3/4-inch width and the same 70-inch height with hinges (68-7/8 inches without), but very different depths:

Read that table the way a cabinet designer does. The width is identical for the two freestanding models, so the cabinet above is a 36-inch box either way. The depth is what changes the enclosure: the standard-depth fridge puts its door faces about 5-1/2 inches further into the room than the counter-depth one. The built-in is a different animal entirely. It is taller, it is meant to stand in a framed opening, and its maker publishes a rough-opening height range rather than a clearance, because the cabinet above forms the top of that opening.

Those are examples, not standards. Every model has its own sheet, and the only safe numbers are the ones for the refrigerator you are actually buying. If the appliance is not chosen yet, plan the opening around the largest model you would consider and fill any leftover gap later with a filler, which is cheap. Going the other way, cutting cabinets to fit a bigger fridge, is not.

Air and Door Clearances the Manufacturers Ask For

A refrigerator gets rid of heat through its condenser, and it needs air to do it. That is why no manufacturer wants a cabinet sitting directly on the fridge's top. The published minimums vary by brand and by model:

Our rule when we draw a fridge wall is simple: plan one inch of air above the hinge caps unless the spec sheet asks for more, and use the sheet's side number for the gap to each panel. An inch costs nothing visually. It sits above eye level, and from the room it reads as a shadow line.

The door swing is the clearance people forget. A fridge pushed tight into a corner, or boxed in by a panel on its hinge side, may not open far enough to pull out the crisper drawers. That is why both Samsung and Monogram publish a side dimension for the wall case, and why a panel that sticks out past the front of the fridge case on the hinge side needs checking against the door-swing drawing before you order it.

Cabinet Over the Fridge: Matching Width to the Opening

Width is the easy decision. The cabinet above the fridge spans the same opening as the fridge, so the side panels line up top to bottom and the enclosure reads as one piece. A 36-inch fridge gets a 36-inch cabinet, a 33-inch fridge a 33-inch cabinet, and so on, with the exact opening fixed by the panels on either side.

The codes read width, height, depth. W361824 is 36 wide, 18 high and 24 deep. If you want the full logic of those letters and numbers, our guide to reading cabinet SKU codes walks through it, and the 3-inch increment system explains why 33 exists between 30 and 36. One finish catch in Galaxy: the 21-inch-high deep boxes (W302124, W332124, W362124) come only in Frost, Dove, Indigo and Timber, while the other heights come in every Galaxy finish.

A 33-inch opening is worth one warning. On our Galaxy price list the 33-inch deep boxes cost more than the 36-inch ones at some heights (W331224 at $455.00 against W361224 at $370.50). If the room has space for a 36-inch opening, building to 36 can come out cheaper and leaves room for a bigger fridge later, at the cost of a wider gap beside today's 33-inch model. Ask us to price both before you commit.

Cabinet Height by Ceiling and Upper Line

Height is where most of the mistakes happen, and the fix is a single subtraction. The box above the fridge normally lines up at the top with the rest of your uppers, so its top is fixed. Its bottom has to clear the fridge. Everything else follows.

Most kitchens hang their wall cabinets with the bottom edge 54 inches off the floor, which puts the top of a 30-inch upper at 84 inches, a 36-inch upper at 90 and a 42-inch upper at 96. Now look at what that does to the space over the fridge:

The neat result is the fourth column. On a standard 54-inch upper line, the box over a freestanding fridge ends up 72 inches off the floor whichever upper height you pick, because each matching deep-box height is exactly 18 inches shorter than the upper it lines up with. The 70-inch Samsung models above fit under that with two inches to spare.

Where it goes wrong is a taller fridge. Plenty of large French-door models stand an inch or two taller than 70 inches with their hinge caps on. In that case drop one height step: a 15-inch box under 30-inch uppers, or 21 inches under 42-inch uppers, which lifts the bottom edge to 75 inches. In Galaxy finishes other than Frost, Dove, Indigo and Timber there is no 21-inch deep box, so under 42-inch uppers the step is to 18 inches, with the bottom edge at 78. You lose three inches of storage and gain an opening that accepts almost any freestanding fridge sold today. We recommend that step on any job where the fridge has not been bought yet.

Worked example: 8-foot ceiling, 42-inch uppers

Ceiling 96 inches, uppers running to the ceiling with a small scribe at the top. The new fridge's spec sheet says 70 inches with hinges and asks for one inch above. Cabinet top at 96, fridge plus air at 71, so anything up to 25 inches high fits. The catalog tops out at 24, so W362424 it is, with a one-inch air gap plus the inch the sheet asked for. Total opening height from floor to cabinet bottom: 72 inches.

Worked example: 9-foot ceiling, cabinets to the ceiling

Ceiling 108 inches. Here the uppers are 42 inches with a row of 12-inch stacked cabinets on top, and the fridge wall needs to reach 108 as well. No 24-inch-deep box is taller than 24 inches, so stack two: W362424 from 72 to 96 and W361224 from 96 to 108, fastened together and to the panels. For the full stacked-upper look across the rest of the room, our guide to the full-height look with stacked uppers has the options. On a 10-foot ceiling Fabuwood's 120-inch refrigerator panel (30 inches deep only) is the piece that lets the side panels reach.

Worked example: built-in fridge on an 8-foot ceiling

A built-in is sized the other way round. Monogram's guide for its 36-inch built-in gives a finished rough opening between 83 and 84-1/2 inches high. Set the opening at 84 and a 12-inch-high box fills the rest of a 96-inch ceiling exactly, with its bottom forming the top of the opening. That leaves no margin for an out-of-level floor, so measure the ceiling at both sides of the opening and let the installer scribe the top rather than planning a taller box.

Before any of this, measure the real room, not the plan. Ceilings sag in the middle and floors slope toward old exterior walls. Our step-by-step guide to measuring a kitchen for cabinets covers where to take each number.

12 vs 24 Inches Deep: Where the Face Ends Up

A standard wall cabinet is 12 inches deep, plus about 3/4 inch of door. A refrigerator, even a counter-depth one, sits much further forward once you allow the two inches of air behind it that GE and Samsung ask for. The numbers from the two Samsung models make the problem concrete:

Eighteen inches of fridge top in front of a shallow cabinet is a shelf at head height. It collects cereal boxes and dust, and the doors of the cabinet above are too far back for most people to open without a step stool. Bring the face forward to within six inches of the doors and the fridge looks fitted, and the cabinet becomes something you can open from the floor.

The premium for the deep box is small. On our Fabuwood Galaxy price list, W3612 (36 wide, 12 high, standard depth) is $253.50 and the 24-inch-deep W361224 is $370.50, a difference of $117.00. At 18 inches high it is W3618 at $273.00 against W361824 at $419.25. That is about the price of one refrigerator panel for the single change that most decides whether the fridge wall looks finished.

There is one case for a 12-inch box: a fridge standing alone on a wall with no panels, where there is nothing to fasten a deep box to and the cabinet above lines up with a run of standard uppers beside it. It works, but plan to treat the fridge top as open space, and read the section on skipping the cabinet first. Sometimes nothing is the better answer.

Refrigerator Wall Cabinets in the Lines We Carry

The sizes are similar across framed American-style lines, but they are not identical, and the spec books differ in heights, depths and whether a shelf comes inside. Here is what the spec books we have on file show:

The J&K depth is the odd one out and it is useful. At 27 inches the box comes three inches further forward than everyone else's, which suits standard-depth fridges, and J&K sells a matching 27-inch-deep refrigerator panel (RRP9627) so the surround stays in one plane. KCD's spec book adds a detail worth remembering on every brand: the listed depth is the box, and the door thickness is on top of it.

All of these are framed lines with overlay doors, which is what most kitchens we supply use. If you are working in a frameless line the principle is the same, but check its panel thickness rules; Monogram's own guide, for example, requires side panels at least 1/2 inch thick beside its built-in when the cabinets are frameless. Full dimensions for every Fabuwood box are in our Fabuwood sizes and specs guide, and every spec book we carry is on the spec books page.

42- and 48-Inch Refrigerators and the Lift-Up Units

Big built-in side-by-sides and paired refrigerator and freezer columns need a 42- or 48-inch opening, and here the doored options run out. In Allure there is no two-door box wider than 36 inches at 24 inches deep. What there is, and what the spec book introduces as a "Lift-Up Refrigerator Cabinet," is a pair of lift-ups: W421224LU and W481224LU, both 12 inches high and 24 inches deep, with a single door that lifts up instead of swinging out. On our Galaxy list they are $689.00 and $747.50.

The lift-up works well here for a practical reason. A single 42-inch door swinging sideways would reach far past the fridge, into the path of anyone standing at it. A top-hinged door rises straight up and stays out of the way while you reach in. The limit is height: at 12 inches it suits a built-in whose opening leaves about a foot above it, which is exactly the situation on an 8-foot ceiling with an 84-inch built-in. For a wide freestanding fridge under a taller gap, the extra space is usually closed with a panel or a matching filler above the lift-up, drawn and priced as one assembly.

One thing to know if you read the Allure spec book yourself. Its price grid for 30-inch-high double-door uppers ends with a W4230, a 42-inch-wide wall cabinet. That is an ordinary two-door upper at standard 12-inch depth with a 1-1/2-inch center stile, not a lift-up and not a refrigerator cabinet, and our Galaxy list stops its doored uppers at 39 inches. Do not confuse it with the over-fridge unit. The lift-up hardware category in general is explained in our section on wall cabinet lift systems, and you can browse the boxes themselves among our lift-up wall cabinets.

Refrigerator End Panels and Panel Surrounds

A refrigerator end panel, coded REP in most spec books and usually just called a fridge panel on the job, is a tall, deep, finished board that stands beside the refrigerator from the floor up past the cabinet above. It does two jobs. It gives the 24-inch-deep cabinet something to fasten to on each side, and it hides the fridge's plain metal flank so the appliance sits in a finished opening instead of beside a run of cabinets. A pair of them plus the deep box is what designers mean by a refrigerator enclosure or panel surround.

These are thicker and deeper than the finished skins used on the side of an ordinary cabinet, which we explain in our guide to skin panels and gables. The general family of end panels, fillers and scribe is covered in our end panels, scribe molding and fillers guide. This section is only about the refrigerator version, which is where most of the sizing questions come from.

The Fabuwood Allure REP family

The spec book adds details that matter on site. Both long edges of the 3/4-inch panels are edge-banded, so when a panel has to be ripped to depth, take the cut off the back edge, the one against the wall, and keep the banded front edge. The 1-1/2 and 3-inch versions are finished flush on their sides with no reveal. Our price list also carries items coded REP1-1/2 ($250.25) and REP3 ($325.00), and a refrigerator panel end cap, RFPEC ($97.50); we confirm what each one is for on your drawing before we put it on a quote rather than guess from the code. You can browse the panels in every finish among our refrigerator end panels.

Which panel depth to order

Pick the depth from the fridge case, not the doors. Using the Samsung examples with two inches of air behind them, the front of a counter-depth case lands about 26 inches from the wall and a standard-depth case about 31-3/8 inches. A 24-inch panel beside a counter-depth fridge leaves about two inches of the case and the full door showing, which reads as built in. A 30-inch panel beside a standard-depth fridge covers nearly the whole case. Most kitchens we draw stop the panel at or just behind the front of the case.

The one thing to avoid is a panel that runs past the front of the case on the hinge side. The door pivots near that front corner, and a panel sitting in its path can stop the door short of 90 degrees, which is when the crisper drawers stop sliding out. Monogram asks for two inches between its built-in's case trim and a wall for exactly that reason. If you want a deeper panel for the look, put the hinge on the other side or check the door-swing drawing first.

Flush look vs framed look

There are two ways a panel surround can look, and the choice is mostly the thickness. In the flush look, 3/4-inch panels stand in line with the cabinets on either side, the box above sits between them, and the fridge reads as sitting in a niche. It is quiet and works with any door style. In the framed look, 1-1/2 or 3-inch panels stand like pilasters on either side, often with the deep box set between them and a filler or crown tying the top together. The heavier edge draws a frame around the appliance, which suits a stainless fridge that you want to show off rather than hide.

The framed version costs more ($26 more per panel at 1-1/2 inches and $68.25 more at 3 inches, for the 30-by-96 size in Galaxy) and it eats width: two 3-inch panels take six inches of wall where two 3/4-inch panels take an inch and a half. On a tight wall that can be the difference between a 36-inch fridge and a 33-inch one, so decide before the appliance is bought.

Other lines: US Cabinet Depot and J&K

US Cabinet Depot's spec book lists one refrigerator end panel, REPV3096, at 1-1/2 inches thick, 96 inches tall and 30 inches deep, with an optional REPVKIT of four metal L-brackets that attach a front filler piece to the panel. J&K's refrigerator panel, RRP9627, is 96 inches tall and 27 inches deep to match its 27-inch refrigerator cabinets, in a version with a return filler and a plain 3/4-inch version. The US Cabinet Depot review and J&K review cover those lines more broadly.

Side panels are not door panels

A fridge panel dresses the sides of the opening. A panel-ready refrigerator is a different product that takes cabinet-matched panels on its doors, sized to the appliance maker's drawing. That is an appliance decision made when you buy the fridge; a stainless fridge cannot be converted later. If you are going panel-ready, send us the model's installation guide with your layout so the door panels, side panels and cabinet above are all drawn to the same sheet.

How a Fridge Enclosure Goes Together

We sell the cabinets and do not install them, but we build and remodel kitchens ourselves, and the fridge wall is where an installer's order of work shows. The sequence below is the general one; your cabinet maker's installation instructions and the refrigerator's installation guide take precedence wherever they differ.

1. Rough-in first. The outlet and water supply go where the fridge guide shows them; built-in guides often require the outlet on the rear wall within a set zone. Electrical and plumbing work should be done by licensed trades to local code, and a water shut-off valve should stay reachable.
2. Set the opening width. Fridge width plus the side clearance on its sheet, measured at the floor and again at 72 inches in case the wall is out of plumb.
3. Stand and fasten the panels. Each panel is set plumb and fastened at the wall to studs or blocking and at the floor to a cleat, and to the side of any neighboring base or tall cabinet with screws short enough not to break through the finished face.
4. Hang the deep cabinet between them. The box is screwed through its sides into both panels and through its back rail into studs. A 24-inch-deep box full of platters is a real load; it should never hang off the side of a 12-inch upper alone.
5. Close the gaps. A tall filler between the fridge and a base run keeps the fridge door clear of the countertop and handles. Scribe or crown closes the top line. Toe kick runs across the bottom of any base or pantry beside it.
6. Slide the fridge in last. Level it, then open both doors fully and pull every drawer out before the installer leaves.

For hanging the box itself, including ledger boards and stud finding, see our guide to hanging upper kitchen cabinets. For what the labor costs, our installation cost guide collects published rates. If a panel meets a wavy wall, scribe molding closes the gap.

Above a French-Door, Side-by-Side or Top-Freezer Fridge

The type of refrigerator changes the details more than the cabinet.

French-door. Most are 36 inches wide, so the cabinet above is a 36-inch two-door box, and its center seam lines up over the split between the fridge doors, which looks deliberate. French-door models are often the tallest freestanding fridges, so check the hinge-cap height against the 71-inch limit of a standard layout and step down a height if needed. Their narrow doors need less room to swing than one wide door, but the drawer below still needs the doors fully open for the crisper bins to come out.

Side-by-side. Also usually 36 inches in freestanding form. The two tall doors swing from both outside edges, so both sides of the opening need door-swing clearance, and panels on both sides need the same care described above.

Top-freezer and bottom-freezer. Often 28 to 33 inches wide and shorter than a French-door model. A shorter fridge leaves a taller gap, and the temptation is to lower the cabinet to meet it. Don't. Keep the box at the upper line so the kitchen reads level, and accept the extra air above today's fridge; the next one will probably be taller. GE notes that top-freezer clearances vary by capacity, so read that model's sheet.

Built-in and column refrigerators. Covered in the height section above: the maker publishes a rough opening, and the cabinet above is drawn to it.

What to Store Up There, or Skip the Cabinet

The bottom shelf of a cabinet starting at 72 inches is above the eye level of most adults, and the back of a 24-inch shelf is beyond comfortable reach without a step stool. Plan it as occasional storage. Things that suit it: sheet pans, trays and cutting boards stood on edge, serving platters, holiday dishes, backup paper goods, and the pasta maker you use twice a year. Things that do not: anything heavy, anything breakable you reach for weekly, and anything you would need to see to find.

If you want the cabinet to be more useful, the biggest improvement is not a gadget but a height choice. A 12- or 15-inch box that starts at 72 inches keeps everything within a short reach of its front edge, and a lift-up door on the wide units stays open overhead while you use both hands. We do not currently list pull-down shelf mechanisms for these boxes, so if you need storage that comes down to you, a pantry beside the fridge is the better answer; our pantry cabinet sizes guide covers the options.

No cabinet above the fridge

Leaving the space open is a legitimate choice, and some kitchens look better for it: a low ceiling where the box would only be 12 inches high, a fridge on a short wall between a window and a doorway, or a design with no uppers at all. If you skip it, keep the fridge's top clearance anyway, and either run the side panels only to the height of the fridge or carry them up to the ceiling and add a single shelf between them as an open cubby. What we advise against is a 12-inch-deep upper set well back over a fridge with nothing around it, which gives you neither storage nor a clean look.

What It Costs: Four Priced Examples

These use our displayed prices for Fabuwood Allure Galaxy in its twelve standard-priced finishes, such as Frost, Dove, Linen or Nickel, at the time of writing. Desert Oak and Natural Oak run about 20 percent higher. Installation, the refrigerator and delivery are not included, and your quote is the final word on price.

Two variations change the numbers most. Swap one panel for an 18-inch pantry (TP182496, $1,150.50) and scenario 2 rises by $854.75, but you gain a full-height cupboard beside the fridge instead of a board. Choose a 12-inch-high box instead of 24 and the cabinet line drops by $208.00. The panels are the line people forget: the most common under-budget fridge wall we see prices one panel when the plan needs two.

For a rough total across a full layout, try our kitchen cabinet cost estimator. Contractors and designers buying through Captivating Pro get trade pricing on top of these figures.

Ordering Checklist

• The fridge's own spec sheet: width, height with hinge caps, case depth, depth to door face, and the clearances it asks for. For a new fridge, the model number; for an unbought one, the largest model you would consider.
• Which side the door hinges on, and whether either side of the opening is against a wall.
• The upper line: the height of your uppers and whether they run to the ceiling, have crown, or stack.
• The ceiling height, measured at both sides of the fridge opening.
• How many sides are exposed, so the quote carries one panel or two, plus fillers and end caps.
• The look: flush 3/4-inch panels or a thicker framed surround.
• The rest of the wall: a pantry, oven tower or base run beside the fridge, which decides the fillers.

Order the fridge wall with the rest of the kitchen. Painted and stained parts are finished in batches, and a panel ordered months later can show a slight color difference next to the original. Our kitchen dimensions guide covers the other appliance openings on the same plan, and the island clearance guide covers the walkway in front of the fridge doors.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size cabinet goes above a 36-inch refrigerator?

A 36-inch-wide, 24-inch-deep refrigerator wall cabinet, in the height that fills the space to your upper line: 12 inches under 30-inch uppers, 18 under 36-inch uppers, or 24 under 42-inch uppers on a 54-inch hanging line. In Fabuwood Allure those are W361224, W361824 and W362424, from $370.50 to $578.50 in Galaxy.

How deep should an over-the-fridge cabinet be?

Twenty-four inches deep for Fabuwood, US Cabinet Depot and KCD, and 27 inches for J&K. The door adds about 3/4 inch. That puts the face within about six inches of a counter-depth fridge's doors, where you can reach it from the floor. A standard 12-inch upper sits 18 inches or more behind them.

How much space should be between the refrigerator and the cabinet above?

Follow the fridge's installation guide. GE's general list asks for 1 inch above the case and Samsung's fit guides ask for at least 3/8 inch at the top and sides. We plan one inch above the hinge caps unless the sheet asks for more. Built-in refrigerators are different: they specify a rough opening height instead.

What is a refrigerator end panel?

A tall, deep finished panel that stands beside the fridge from the floor to the top of the cabinet above. It covers the fridge's side and gives the deep cabinet something to fasten to. Fabuwood's REP2496 (24 by 96 inches, $295.75 in Galaxy) and REP3096 (30 by 96, $341.25) are the common sizes, with thicker 1-1/2 and 3-inch versions and a 120-inch length for tall ceilings.

Do I need a panel on both sides of the fridge?

You need one on every side the room can see. If one side of the fridge is against a wall or a tall pantry, that side is already covered and the cabinet above can fasten to the pantry instead. A fridge between two runs of cabinets needs two.

What size refrigerator fits in a 36-inch opening?

Refrigerators sold as "fits a 36-inch opening" are usually about 35-3/4 inches wide, like the two Samsung models above, which leaves room for the side clearance. Check the depth too: a standard-depth model stands roughly 5-1/2 inches further out than a counter-depth one of the same width.

Can I use a regular 12-inch-deep upper over the fridge?

You can, and it costs about $117 less at 36 by 12 inches in Galaxy, but its face ends up 18 to 23 inches behind the fridge doors. That leaves a ledge on top of the fridge and a cabinet most people cannot open without a stool. It is fine only where the fridge stands alone with no panels.

Is it OK to have no cabinet above the refrigerator?

Yes. On low ceilings, short walls or kitchens without uppers it can look cleaner. Keep the fridge's top clearance, and either stop the side panels at the fridge or carry them to the ceiling with an open shelf between them.

Get the Fridge Wall Drawn Before You Buy the Fridge

The cheapest time to get this right is before the appliance and cabinets are ordered. Send us the refrigerator's model number or spec sheet, your ceiling height and a rough sketch, and our design service will turn it into a 3D layout with the cabinet above, the panels and every filler on an itemized quote, within 24–48 hours. To see the finish in person first, order Fabuwood door samples.

Questions about a specific opening? Use our contact page or call 609-900-3358 and we will check the sizes against the spec book with you. You can also browse the deep boxes directly among our refrigerator wall cabinets.