Galaxy Pistachio Green Wall-Mount Range Hood Cabinets

Each of these listings is a painted wood shell with a full stainless steel liner inside it. The liner is removable for cleaning, it keeps heat and grease off the wood, and it is what the blower insert bolts into. What the listing does not include is the blower itself. A plain box on its own is a very handsome piece of cabinetry that moves no air, and the order is not complete until one of the three internal blowers is on it beside the shell.

What sets the Arched family apart from the other four shapes is how plain its geometry is. Its sides are flush and finished, because a wood hood projects well past a 12″-deep upper to reach the front burners and its flanks are on show from across the room. The top panel lifts, rather than running up into a stack. And Fabuwood lists its depth as something that can be changed through their custom-quote process, which none of the other shapes offers in the same way. That last point is easy to miss and occasionally decisive: if a window casing, a side wall or a tall pantry beside the range makes the standard projection awkward, this is the family to ask about before you give up on a wood hood.

The list is short. There is no 30″ Arched hood in any Galaxy finish, so a 30″ range gets a hood from one of the other families or gets a 36″ box, which is the better answer anyway if the flanking cabinets can give up three inches each.

1. The 48″ will not take the smallest blower. Of the three Broan-NuTone inserts, the 250 CFM unit is the one that is not offered for GPG RHA483021. On a hood that wide you would rarely want it, but if a budget spreadsheet paired the widest box with the cheapest fan, the pairing has to change — to the 400 at $903.50 or the 600 at $1,787.50.
2. Crown goes above the hood, not on it. Fabuwood’s note for this family is specific: if the run carries crown molding, it is applied above the cabinet rather than fixed to the hood’s face frame. Draw the crown line across the whole elevation before ordering, because it decides whether the hood top reads as part of the upper run or as a separate object hung under it.
3. Depth is a question to ask before the order, not after. If the standard projection clashes with anything beside the range, raise it with your designer while the drawing is still open; a custom-quote change is a different lead time and a different price from the stock listing.
4. Everything outside the box is yours to source. Ductwork, the exterior cap and damper, the circuit and the installation come from your contractor. None of it is on this page, and a quote that looks complete without it is not.

Four decisions belong on the sheet with the shell, and each one is easier to make on paper than on installation day.

This is the question a neutral finish never raised. On a grey or white run, the hood is the same colour as everything else and the only choice is its shape. This green is different: plenty of kitchens that use it keep it below the counter, or on the island, and put a lighter finish on the wall cabinets. As soon as the room is two colours, the hood has to belong to one of them, and the answer is not always the one people expect.

The rule we draw to is simple: the hood takes the colour of the plane it sits in. It hangs at eye level between two wall cabinets, so in a room with green bases and Frost or Linen uppers, a green hood reads as a block of lower-cabinet colour lifted into the upper run. Sometimes that is the design — a deliberate green focal point on the cooking wall — but more often it looks like an ordering mistake. A hood in the upper finish keeps the upper line continuous and lets the green do its work at counter height. Every Galaxy finish lists the same Arched box, so the uppers’ colour is available: the Frost collection and the Linen collection both carry it at these prices.

The reverse case — light lowers, green uppers — is rare and hard to make work, and there the hood should almost always be green for the same reason. And in an all-green kitchen the question disappears: the hood is simply the largest unbroken painted face in the finish, so it is the surface where you will first notice whether the colour suits the light. Judge it on a door sample held up at hood height, not on a screen.

The chimney and designer shells are also listed with a Timber accent; the slim and curved glass shells with Timber or Walnut. The Arched box has neither. In a grey kitchen that barely matters. In a green one it can, because a green room with nothing warm on the cooking wall can feel cold, and the easy way to add warmth there is usually a wood accent on the hood.

If you want wood on that wall and like this shape, put it somewhere other than the hood: a butcher-block counter run either side of the range, open oak shelves on the adjacent wall, or the floor. The green cabinets guide covers which woods sit best beside this grey-sage — white oak and walnut both do — and a plain box in the same green as the lowers, flanked by warm wood, is a calm, finished-looking wall. If the wood has to be on the hood itself, that is a reason to look at the chimney or slim pages instead, at no premium for the accent.

A painted hood sits directly above the most metal-heavy object in the kitchen, so the range and the cabinet hardware meet on this wall whether you plan it or not. A stainless range under a sage box is the easy default; the steel is cool and grey and this green is greyed, so they sit together without argument. Brass or champagne-bronze pulls on the flanking uppers warm the wall up, and the green guide’s pairing notes back that up. Matte black works too, but it is the harshest contrast against a mid-value green and on a hood wall it can look busy with a black range grate below.

What to avoid is a third metal. A stainless range, brass pulls and a black pot filler on the same few feet of wall is one metal too many. Pick two, and let the hood — which carries no hardware of its own — stay a quiet painted surface between them.