Galaxy Pistachio Green Diagonal Sink Base Cabinets

The strongest argument for keeping a corner sink is the plumbing that is already there. The drain, the vent and the supplies all land in that corner, and every foot the sink moves along a wall is new pipe, opened drywall and possibly a new vent route. The strongest argument for moving it is everything a corner sink does to the working space: it puts the bowl where two runs meet, it sends the dishwasher around a corner, and it leaves little counter directly beside the bowl.

There is no single right answer. If the drywall is coming off anyway, moving the sink costs less than it ever will again. If only the cabinets and counter are changing, keeping the corner is usually the sensible remodel, and the rest of this page assumes that is what you are doing. The remodeler’s guide covers how we support that kind of partial job.

The old cabinet is the best measuring tool you have, and it disappears on demolition day. Take these numbers while it is still standing, and photograph each one with the tape in the frame.

1. Along each wall, from the inside corner to the first joint between the old corner unit and its neighbour. The new box takes 36″ on each wall; if the old one took more or less, a filler or a neighbour’s width has to change.
2. The drain centre: its height above the floor and its distance from the corner along whichever wall it comes out of.
3. Both supply stops, the same way. Old stops are often low and far back in the corner, which matters for the door choice below.
4. The corner’s squareness. Measure 3 feet along one wall and 4 feet along the other from the corner, then the diagonal between those two marks: 5 feet means a true right angle. More or less means the walls are out of square.
5. The window: where its centre falls relative to the corner, and the height of the sill above the floor, so the faucet still clears it.
6. The floor under the old box, once it is out. Old corner sinks often hide years of small leaks; soft or stained subfloor gets repaired before the new cabinet goes in, not after.

The kitchen dimensions checklist has the rest of the numbers worth taking on the same visit.

Houses settle and walls are rarely perfect, and a corner that has had a cabinet in it for years may be a degree or two away from square. The new cabinet is square, because it comes built. The difference has to go somewhere, and on a diagonal unit it shows at the two back corners and along the countertop edges.

A good installer handles it the usual way: sets the box level and plumb against the higher points of the walls, shims behind it where the wall falls away, and takes up any visible gap at the ends of the adjoining runs with scribe or a filler. In this finish the thin scribe strips are GPG SM8-S at $39.00 and the decorative profile GPG SM8-D at $41.60, and a 3″ base filler, GPG BF3, is $26.00. The fillers and scribe live on the decorative accessories page, and our guide to end panels, scribe and fillers explains which does what. Order them with the cabinet, painted in the finish, not afterwards.

The countertop is where an out-of-square corner really shows, because stone does not bend to meet a wall. Which leads to the next point.

People hope to keep the old counter and replace only the cabinets. In a corner-sink kitchen that very rarely works. The top is a single L or two pieces joined near the corner, with a sink cutout set at forty-five degrees for one specific bowl. Lifting it off intact is difficult with laminate and risky with stone, a new sink almost never matches the old cutout, and the new cabinets have to land in precisely the old positions for the old top to sit right.

Plan for a new top from the start. The sequence is fixed: cabinets set and fastened first, then the fabricator templates on the installed boxes, then the top is cut and fitted around the actual sink. Choose the sink before templating day, since the corner cutout is cut for that model.

A corner sink remodel is often a lowers-only remodel: the wall cabinets are sound, the counter and the base run are tired. That is the natural place for a colour. A muted sage in the lower run under existing white, cream or off-white uppers is one of the most forgiving ways to use green, because the green stays below eye level and the lighter uppers keep the room bright. The diagonal sink base sits at the hinge of that L, so it is the one green cabinet you will see from almost anywhere in the room.

Two cautions. First, the uppers you keep set the tone; a cool bright white and a warm cream make the same sage look different, so compare a door sample against your actual upper doors in daylight and under your own bulbs. Second, the hardware should tie the two colours together: one metal on both the kept uppers and the new lowers. If the uppers will one day be replaced too, Galaxy’s lighter finishes — Frost, Linen and Dove — are the same prices for the same boxes, so the two-tone can be completed later. The green cabinet guide covers which whites suit a greyed sage.

The two versions cost the same $617.50 and are the same box; only the face differs. GPG DSB36 has a door beneath a false drawer front, so the band of drawer fronts along both walls turns the corner unbroken. GPG DSB36FD has one full-height door and therefore a taller opening. In a remodel, the old plumbing often decides it: supply stops mounted low and deep in the corner, or a water filter already in place, are easier to reach through the taller opening. If the plumbing is being renewed anyway, choose on looks and match the drawer band.

A like-for-like corner replacement is a short job when it is sequenced properly, and a long one when it is not. This is the order we would give an installer:

1. Cabinets delivered and checked before anything is removed. Ours ship assembled in 7 days to 3 weeks; do not demolish until they are in the house.
2. Water off, sink disconnected, the old counter removed, then the old base.
3. Floor and back wall inspected and repaired while they are exposed.
4. The diagonal box set first, levelled and fastened, because both runs are aligned to it; then the neighbours, fillers and scribe.
5. Countertop templated on the installed cabinets, with the new sink chosen.
6. Top fitted, sink mounted, plumbing reconnected, then the doors adjusted — the Blum hinges are adjustable, so the angled door can be brought into line with the fronts on both runs.

In practice the kitchen is usually without a sink between demolition and the top going in, so plan for that stretch. If the corner turns out to need an odd size, the diagonal sink front at $149.50 lets an installer frame a corner of any size behind a factory face. A straight-wall sink is the sink base, and an apron sink the farm sink cabinet. Send photos and measurements to the design service and a designer will reply within one business day, or call us on (609) 900-3358. Everything else in the finish is in the collection.