Galaxy Horizon Chimney Range Hood Cabinets

Each listing is the wood shell with a full stainless steel liner inside it. The liner is removable for cleaning, it keeps heat and grease off the wood, and it is where the blower insert mounts. The blower is a separate line item; so are the duct, the exterior cap and damper, the circuit and the labour. On a chimney hood the stack above the canopy is removable and trimmable on site, which is what lets one listing suit a range of ceiling heights. Our listings do not publish the stack’s height, so take the dimension from Fabuwood’s specification drawing and hold it against your own floor-to-ceiling measurement before the order goes in.

A chimney hood touches four trades: whoever runs the duct, the electrician, the tile setter and the cabinet installer. Every one of them works on the same few square feet of wall. On a painted finish, a knock from a ladder or a smear of thinset is usually fixable with a dab from a matching can. On a stain it is harder, for reasons explained further down, so the aim is to schedule the work so that the hood meets as few other trades as possible after it is up.

The sequence we draw into most jobs is below. It is a planning order, not a rule: your installer’s method and the insert’s installation instructions come first, and Broan-NuTone calls for a qualified installer and wiring to code for the insert itself.

1. Rough-in first. The duct route through the ceiling, the damper and the electrical feed for the insert are run and inspected while the wall and ceiling are open. The stack will hide the vertical run, so its position has to be known before anything is closed up.
2. Wall cabinets next. The flanking uppers go up and are levelled, which fixes the gap the hood will sit in.
3. Decide the tile question before either trade arrives. If the backsplash runs up behind the hood, it can go on before the hood (so the tile setter is not cutting and grouting against a finished stained face) or after it (so the tile is cut neatly to the hood’s outline). Both are done well every day; what goes wrong is nobody deciding, and a tile setter arriving to find the hood already up.
4. Hood and stack last, then the insert. Hang the canopy, trim and fit the stack to the ceiling, then mount the blower in the liner and connect it.
5. Final paint on the ceiling and wall after, with the hood masked. A roller of ceiling white spattering onto a stained stack is a common final-week mark, and it is avoidable.

Because the stack is trimmable, a chimney hood suits more ceilings than its catalogue height suggests. Trimming only works in one direction, though. A stack that is too tall for the room can be cut down; a stack that is too short cannot be lengthened, and the gap it leaves at the ceiling has to be closed some other way. Measure floor to ceiling at the exact point where the stack will meet it, because ceilings are rarely level across a kitchen, and compare that with the drawing before ordering, not on the day.

On a stained part, the second question is which end of the stack gets cut and whether anybody will see it. A clean cut is fresh, unfinished wood, pale against the grey-taupe. If the cut edge disappears into the ceiling line, it does not matter. If it will be visible — at a soffit, a bulkhead or an exposed top — it needs colour on it before the hood goes up. Ask your installer where they intend to cut and how the top meets the ceiling, and have the Touch Up Kit on site before they start, not after.

Fabuwood’s specification book is explicit: because of the complexity of its finishes, paint spray cans are not available for stained finishes. What exists instead is a Touch Up Kit, described as a stick, a marker and a scraper, and in this finish it is listed with the loose parts at $62.40. The difference matters. A paint is an opaque layer, so a matching spray can put the same layer back. A stain is colour in the wood under a clear coat, and the grain is part of what you see; a spray would cover the grain and leave a flat patch. The kit works at the scale of a mark: the stick fills a small dent or chip, the marker adds colour to a scratch or a pale edge, and the scraper levels the filled area so it sits flush.

In practice that means three things on installation day. Small marks on edges and corners are very fixable, and are best dealt with the same day, before grease and dust settle into them. Larger damage across a flat face is harder to hide on a stain than on a paint, because the repaired patch has no grain in it, which is why the sequencing above is worth the trouble. And the kit is best used in good light, a little at a time, building colour up rather than laying it on; a heavy first pass on a light-to-mid stain like this one is harder to take back than a light one.

Once the hood is up, the kitchen is usually not finished. There are appliance deliveries, a countertop templater, a plumber under the sink, a painter, and often a final electrical visit to connect the insert. The hood is at head height, directly above where people put things down.

• Put cardboard corner guards or a folded moving blanket over the canopy’s lower edge and corners until the range is in. That edge is where ladders and appliance dollies make contact.
• Mask, don’t tape, finished faces. Use a low-tack painter’s tape only on the wall side of any joint, never across the stained surface, and pull it the same day.
• Keep the range off until the insert is connected and the filters are in. Cooking under a hood with no working blower sends grease and steam straight onto new wood; the insert is what protects the shell.
• Clean the dust off with a soft, barely damp cloth, wiped with the grain, and dry it. Our cabinet care guide has the full routine for stained faces.

The chimney shell is also listed with a Timber accent at the same price. Whether two stains on one object suit this room is a design question covered on the designer hood page. On installation day it adds one practical point: two finishes means two touch-up colours. The Touch Up Kit listed in this finish is matched to the grey-taupe; before you choose the accent, ask whether a matching kit exists for the Timber part as well, and budget for it if it does.